Wednesday, April 10, 2013

Fabulous, Wonderful, Delicious Low-Carb Roots

Eating a low carb diet means giving up potatoes, the common and oft-relied-upon starch accompaniment to many a conventional meal. Never fear, though! I have discovered three root vegetables that can fill the void without any sense of deprivation. Enter turnip, rutabaga, and celeriac.

Of the three, turnips are the lowest in net carbs, followed by celeriac, or celery root, and finally by rutabaga. Each one tends to excel at certain types of preparation, but all can serve as a decent substitute for basic mashed potatoes. Turnips have less body, or substance, than celeriac, and rutabaga and tend to give a watery purée, but still good nonetheless.

Here I will present three different preparations of turnip, celeriac, and rutabaga, each ideally suited (in my opinion) to the given vegetable. Finally, I will end with a basic preparation that can use whatever mix of all three--a simple roasted root vegetable dish.

Turnips



Turnips have a pure white flesh that has a slight peppery, bitter bite that mellows to some extent with cooking. I have found that they make a decent substitute for potatoes in slow cooked dishes such as beef stews, though they tend not to hold up to freezing as well.

My favorite way to prepare turnips is in a simple gratin. This dish is an excellent stand-in for scalloped potatoes. The preparation really brings in the natural sweetness of the roots. Cheese is optional--the recipe is delightful without it, but a very nice gruyere can really send it over the top for a special occasion.

Turnip Gratin (serves 4-6)

Ingredients:

1.5-2 lbs. turnips, peeled and sliced thin
2 T. butter
1 medium onion, chopped
1-2 c. heavy cream, half and half, or milk
4-8 oz. cheese (cheddar, swiss, etc.)
Salt and pepper to taste
Nutmeg, cayenne, or other seasoning as desired

Preheat oven to 350 ˚F. Melt butter in a saucepan and saute the onion until translucent. Add cream, half and half, or milk in whatever combination you desire. I prefer cream since it thickens nicely and contributes a wonderful richness to the dish. Add cheese, if desired, and seasonings. Arrange peeled and sliced turnips in a baking dish and pour seasoned onion and cream mixture over them. Top with some additional cheese, if using, to aid in development of a nice crust. Place in the oven and bake for 1 hour, or until the sauce is bubbly, the top is lightly brown, and the turnips are cooked through. The sauce will thicken slightly upon removal from the oven and cooling.

Celeriac


Celeriac is no beauty contest winner, especially compared to the other root vegetables. It has a delicate, slightly nutty flavor reminiscent of celery. It generally requires longer cooking times than potatoes and turnips. Despite its comparatively high cost, I enjoy it braised, as a purée, and shredded raw and prepared as a salad known as "remoulade." I used Ina Garten's recipe for celery root remoulade, but there are many recipes available online depending on which type of dressing suits you.

Celery Root Remoulade (serves 4-6)

Ingredients:

2 lbs. celery root, peeled and shredded
2 T. lemon juice
3/4 cup mayonnaise
1 T. sherry vinegar
1 T. dijon mustard
1 T. whole-grain dijon mustard
Salt, pepper, and herbs to taste (I used dill)

Cut away the outer skin of the celeriac as you would with a pineapple. Cut into sections and shred. I used my food processor. Toss with lemon juice to prevent browning. Add dressing ingredients and seasoning and thoroughly mix. This can be prepared several hours in advance, or the day before--the celeriac won't soften appreciably like cabbage does in a slaw.

Remoulade with low carb pulled pork and braised mustard greens
Rutabaga


The rutabaga is actually a cross between the cabbage and the turnip. The roots are much larger than a turnip, usually on the order of 2 lbs. each. The flesh is a light yellow raw, but turns a deeper yellow-orange shade upon cooking. Rutabagas are noticeably sweeter than both turnips and celeriac, but still have between a third and half of the carbohydrate content of similarly prepared potatoes, depending on your source of nutritional data.

The smell can be quite pungent while cooking, but once they are prepared, the flavor is mild, buttery, and slightly sweet. Rutabagas are commonly sold with a wax coating and can be a bear to peel, though they are nowhere near as bad as celeriac. The raw root is very hard to cut, somewhat like a winter squash, so use caution. Cooking times can be double those of potatoes, so keep that in mind when you want to include rutabaga on your menu. My favorite preparation is a simple purée, again using Ina Garten's recipe as inspiration.

Rutabaga Purée (serves 4)

1 2-lb. rutabaga, peeled and chopped into uniform chunks
2 cloves garlic, peeled
Salt, pepper, and other seasonings to taste
4 T. butter
2 small shallots, sliced thinly

Peel and chop the rutabaga. Add to cold water with salt, and garlic, if desired, and bring to a boil. Simmer for 30 minutes to 1 hour until tender. Drain and add cooked rutabaga and garlic to the bowl of a food processor with butter and seasonings. Pulse until smooth. Top with crispy shallots, if desired.

Crispy Shallots:

Peel and slice shallots. Add to a skillet with sufficient oil for sautéing. Sauté for 10-30 minutes until the shallots are crispy and brown. Remove from the pan to a paper towel to absorb excess oil.


Of course, turnip, celeriac, and rutabaga do not need to be prepared in isolation. Feel free to prepare together in gratins, purées, or in a mixed roasted roots dish:

Roasted Roots (serves 4-8)

Ingredients:

1-2 lbs. turnips, peeled
2 lbs. rutabaga, peeled
2 lbs. celeriac, peeled
4 T. olive oil, butter, duck fat, etc.
Salt, pepper, and seasonings of choice

Preheat over to 350 ˚F. Peel and chop the roots into uniformly-sized chunks. Add to a greased sheet pan and toss with fat and seasonings. Cover with foil, and roast for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Remove foil, toss roots in oil, and continue to roast uncovered for an additional 30-45 minutes, or until sufficiently brown and tender. Depending on the amount of carbs you're eating, you could also add carrots, sweet potatoes, winter squash, or parsnips, too.


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